Bagels from Reno

It may not have occurred to many people to want a bagel baked in a wood-fired oven, much less to seek out such a thing. But this smart sibling (and next-door neighbor) of Logan Square’s Telegraph wine bar makes a convincing case for that idea. Bagels ($2.25) customized with egg, lox, and other proteins ($1 to $3) and tomatoes, radishes, and assorted extras (50 cents to $1) are the focus of the breakfast menu. At lunchtime, sandwiches ($7.50) take center stage. Don’t miss the Cowboy Killer: maple fennel sausage, a fried egg, béchamel, bacon, and rajas (sautéed peppers and onions) on a toasted bun.

After 5 p.m., table service kicks in, and housemade pastas, such as rigatoni carbonara ($14), shine. Want wood-fired pizza? Choose your toppings or try one of the bold combos, which include everything from pepperoni with jalapeño pesto ($12) to a mellow layering of butternut squash, sage, and Gruyère ($11). Desserts are lovely; keep an eye out for malted chocolate mousse pie topped with coffee toffee. Nice wines, beers, and juices, as well as Stumptown coffee. Cash only. 2607 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-697-4234.

Photograph: Anna Knott