There’s more to Jamaican cuisine than jerk chicken, but the rendition of that classic dish at this modest family-run Rogers Park eatery is so excellent that it’s hard to focus on anything else. The chicken ($10), coated in a dry rub of allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers before developing a crusty char on the grill, boasts some serious heat. And yet it remains miraculously supple and tender, infused with an elegant hint of smoke. Want to move beyond the jerk zone? The curried goat ($12) is a knockout, its spices complex and compelling, and the turnover-like beef patty ($3) is a satisfying handheld meal. But when the chicken’s this good, there’s no shame in sticking with what you know.

1217 W. Devon Ave.