Photograph: Courtesy of Courtright's

Roasted grouper, wild mushrooms, caramelized shallots, roasted gorgonzola and walnut endive with red port wine sauce

Courtright’s (8989 S. Archer Ave., Willow Springs, 708-839-8000). Contemporary American.

  ½ (very good to excellent)

$$$$ ($50-plus per person for a meal, without tax, tip, or alcohol)

Amid polished Arts and Crafts decor, French-born Jerome Bacle offers unfailingly sophisticated dishes. His seasonal menu may include a luscious snail cassolette with tarragon almond butter, prosciutto, and fermented garlic followed by rack of lamb with housemade lamb sausage and a Parmesan olive ricotta crêpe.

A world-class wine list and desserts like lemon steamed pudding flambé complement the refined feasting. Occasional misfires from generally adept servers can detract.

Dishes We Liked: saffron risotto with mushrooms, chorizo, and peas ($16); poached sturgeon in passion fruit broth and a sauce of green papaya, lime, and mango sauce with banana and macadamia nut black rice, and sweet potato purée ($38); passion fruit cheesecake with cactus pear sorbet and diced kiwi ($10)

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Avec and Courtright’s maintained their two-and-a-half-star ratings; Taxim maintained its two-star rating. The updated reviews appear in the April issue, on newsstands now.