Much to the chagrin of sushi purists, Chicagoans can’t get enough of those cleverly named, grandiose maki creations. Japanese restaurants around town thumb their noses at tradition by rolling out ostentatious signatures incorporating honey, sunflower seeds, mozzarella, and even strawberries. Is there any substance beneath all that style?
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RESTAURANT
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MAKI
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INSIDE
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OUTSIDE
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THE GRADE
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Sushi Wabi |
Godzilla ($16) | Tempura shrimp, avocado, masago mayo, cream cheese, green onion, chili sauce | Tempura crumbs, eel sauce, sesame seeds, wasabi mayo, orange tobiko | Arguably the instigator of the Huge Maki craze, it’s stuffed to the gills with tasty ingredients. |
| Blu Hotel Orrington, 1700 Orrington Ave., Evanston; 847-491-9220 |
White Sox ($12) | Spicy tuna, shrimp tempura, avocado, cucumber, spicy mayo | Super white tuna, black tobiko | Black-and-white presentation may impress Sox fans. Overpowering spicy mayo won’t. |
| Meiji 623 W. Randolph St.; 312-887-9999 |
Ichigo ($13) | Spicy eel, avocado, jalapeño tempura, masago | Spicy tuna, to-garashi (seven-spice blend), strawberries | Fresh, balanced, and innovative. |
| SushiSamba Rio 504 N. Wells St.; 312-595-2300 |
El Topo ($13.50) | Rice | Salmon, jalapeño, shiso leaf, mozzarella, crispy fried onions | Served hot, it’s ideal for those who don’t like the taste of raw fish. |
| Toro 2546 N. Clark St.; 773-348-4877 |
Best of Both Worlds ($15) | Spicy tuna, deep-fried red snapper, crab salad, cucumber, kani, salmon, white tuna, masago, sunflower seeds, spicy mayo | Tuna, super white tuna, salmon, chili sauce, eel sauce | Gigantic, colorful roll bursting with fresh ingredients is a meal in itself—if you can fit it into your mouth. |
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Agami
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Green Turtle ($15) | Eel, avocado, tempura crunch | Shrimp, wasabi tobiko, creamy wasabi, eel sauce | It’s shaped like a turtle, which is cool, but flavors are bland. |
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T Spot Sushi and Tea Bar
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Hot Spot ($17) | Honey, shiitake mushrooms, tamago | Spicy shrimp, crab, eel torched with sesame oil, jalapeño, red tobiko | When it arrives, the plate is actually set on fire, and more heat follows when the fantastic jalapeño-honey pairing goes down. |
Photograph: Christina Zerkis