If there’s a fashion moment that’s evoked a lot lately, it’s the mythic glamour of the oh-so-80’s Thierry Mugler shows in Paris. Marc Jacobs surprised everyone by summoning this feeling with his show last Sunday. Forget the sexy mess of last Spring—the Jacobs lady this season is very “done.”

The Vuitton show confirmed it: we’re going to be seeing a lot of pleated pants come fall. I saw the trend worn by many a stylish editor at the shows this season, and with waist-cinching belts, it’s surprisingly good. It’s important to make sure the leg is exaggerated and wide so that the effect looks intentional. The colors at Vuitton will probably be influential—icy mints with taupe and grey. And everyone seems crazy for this mint and red shoe combo.

I liked the Spring 2008 Chloe show last season and people acted like I was deranged, but on his third outing for the house, designer Paulo Melim seems to have struck a crowd-pleasing nerve. There was even hooting and hollering after the show.

So what did he get right? It felt a bit like the old Chloe girl, with chiffon dresses and sexy coats. The boxy coat over the chiffon dress could be a trend. There were some cute Liberty prints, pretty off-the-shoulder looks, and dresses with trailing hemlines that accentuated the speedy walk of the girls. The shoes were fantastic. Heeled ankle boots in bright colors and pumps that looked like boots with leaves at the ankle. If the weapon-like footwear at Balenciaga, Chloe, and Lanvin is any indication, the pointy shoe is making a comeback.

Photography: (Images 1-4; 9-12) Elisabeth Fourmont; (Images 5-8, 13-16) Courtesy of Style.com