If dinner can be compared to theater, think of Intro as a can’t-miss limited engagement. Rich Melman took the space that formerly housed L2O, the restaurateur’s seafood jewel, and turned it into a showcase for young kitchen whizzes from around the country. They drop by the lively contemporary dining room for a couple of months at a time, present their vision, and then make way for the next act.

The inaugural and current chef, CJ Jacobson (Girasol in Los Angeles), has staged a forest-foraged wonderland where the five-course dinner darts from delicate fluke crudo in a Douglas fir sauce dotted with fermented chili to chocolate ice cream buried in a mound of refreshing juniper-kombucha “snow”—a beautiful, engaging experiment that will soon vanish. Next up: Erik Anderson of Nashville’s Catbird Seat. When he premieres in mid-May, remember it’s for a short run.

Order this: No decisions here: the menu is prix fixe; drink pairings are optional.