Housing a print shop in the 1890s, Sepia’s glam, velvet-upholstered space matches the effortlessly stylish cooking of chef Andrew Zimmerman, who continues to guide his flagship spot with grace and confidence without ever seeming forced. The two-tops tend to be occupied by couples holding hands across the table—that is, when they’re not reaching for a glass of something from Jennifer Wagoner’s textbook-thick wine list or diving into their eclectic yet refined entrees.

Zimmerman roams freely over the world’s culinary map, dabbling particularly well in pastas (like the masa agnolotti, filled with a delicate corn custard and brightened with yuzu) and Indian flavors, as with his tandoor-cured hamachi with chayote and cilantro. Too full for dessert but craving a nightcap? You can explore the deep list of after-dinner wines.