You’re going to have to forgive Kaufman’s its high-gloss update and shelves of gourmet packaged goods. Look deep into the menu and you’ll find a through-line to a much older vision of what Eastern European Jewish immigrants wanted — endless choice. How much fat do you want on your corned beef? What about the pickles? Half sours or full? Regular egg salad or just the whites? Similarly, the lox comes in three speeds: The belly is so old-country salty you’ll need a thick schmear of cream cheese on the bagel to balance the salinity. The Scottish salmon is luscious and rich, while the nova, the least salty of the three, comes closest to modern tastes. Also this: Whichever you choose, if you don’t order the bagel and lox — ideally with you and your S.O. going halfsies on it and an overstuffed pastrami sandwich — you’re doing Kaufman’s wrong. From $11; 4905 W. Dempster St., Skokie