Loft Six Ten has a relatively lofty goal: to cater to everyone by being both high- and lowbrow, a spot for drinking $3 Milwaukee’s Best and $800 bottles of Cristal. Which means that this two-plus-years-in-the-making bar from the folks who brought you Cortland’s Garage, Goodbar, and The Stretch aims to be exactly what you, and you, and you want—and might never quite hit the mark. On the plus side, $9 to $10 specialty drinks come served in pint glasses. Too bad our servers were mystified by the drink menu (one even asked me if Sauvignon Blanc was red wine). Maybe there are just too many options to remember: The beer cocktails—yep, we’re talking Stoli Oranj with Cointreau and Blue Moon—are more quirky than tasty, and LST’s claim-to-fame Maker’s Mark mixers are pleasant but unsurprising. While slinky staffers serve a beer- and liquor-infused menu beneath staggering 40-foot ceilings, barhoppers are welcome to show up in flip-flops, although everyone looked as posh as the place on our visit. For the owners’ sake, here’s hoping LST stays open longer than it took to get there in the first place.

GO: LOFT SIX TEN 1332 N. Milwaukee Ave.; loft610chicago.com

Photograph: Chris Guillen