The better we get to know this restaurant the more we see it for what it is: the city’s best bistro. Ryan Brosseau’s French Canadian cooking suggests the meals you may have had on vacation in Québec City where the bread is impeccable, the homey porcelain plates hold hearty entrées bathed in sauce, and there is a bit more game and offal on the menu than you find in your typical onion-soup-and-steak-frites bistros. A perfect meal here means duck liver mousse with a hot-from-the-oven baguette, fried Ontario smelts, sweetbreads in demi-glace with corn chow-chow, and a Nanaimo bar for dessert. The way Brosseau melds Great Lakes ingredients with French tradition and technique feels so right for Chicago.