Sure, the terrace at this Peninsula Hotel property affords stunning views of the city and feels like a hidden oasis during warmer months. On the surface, it’s the star of the show. Hence the name. The cozy inside, however, is where you want to try chef Elmo Han’s refined Chinese cooking. Nowhere else do you feel so, well, ensconced. Old Shanghai meets old money in these two gold-and-vermilion rooms separated by mahogany quatrefoil screens. The order? Peking duck, a classic done just right, happiness in a pancake. Dim sum here is fancy but stodgy; instead try dong po pork belly, a wondrous tetrahedron of tender sliced meat encasing braised, seasoned taro. “Happy Red Rice,” with pistachios and feathery bits of egg, is also a revelation — sometimes, the seemingly simplest dish is also the best.