In Diana Dávila’s main-course-worthy take on the quintessential Mexican street food elotes, spaghetti squash gives everything it has: The noodle-like flesh is roasted, the pulp is simmered into stock, and even the hollowed-out shells are repurposed as rustic serving bowls. But for all its hard work, squash is arguably in the supporting role here. The corn — which appears both as plump chewy kernels of Peruvian choclo and as a silky purée that the Mi Tocaya Antojería chef calls corn butter — is the thing you’ll remember long after you’ve savored the last bite.

Diana Dávila’s Elotes-Style Spaghetti Squash

Makes:6 servings
Active time:30 minutes
Total time:1 hour 30 minutes

3Spaghetti squash
1 cupFrozen corn kernels
1 cupHeavy cream
¼ cupGrated Cotija cheese, divided
1 Tbsp.Salt, divided
8 Tbsp.Unsalted butter, divided
1½ cupsFinely chopped onion
14Garlic cloves, minced
1 lb.Choclo desgranado, defrosted (available at Latino markets)
2–4Serrano peppers, minced (depending on heat preference)
 Lime wedges, chopped cilantro, and Tajín, for serving

1. Roast the squash: Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut squash in half lengthwise. Scoop pulp into a large saucepan and set aside. Place squash, flesh side down, on two lined baking trays. Bake until fork tender, 20 to 40 minutes, and set aside until cool enough to handle.

2. Make the stock: While squash roasts, add 4 cups water to the pan with squash pulp. Bring to a boil over medium high, then reduce heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Strain, discard solids, and set aside.

3. Prepare the corn butter: While stock simmers, combine corn kernels and cream in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. In a blender with the filler cap removed from the lid, purée corn and cream with 1 tablespoon Cotija, lime zest and juice, and ½ teaspoon salt until smooth, about 1 minute. Set aside.

4. Make the elotes: Wipe out the stock pan and add 4 tablespoons butter, onions, and garlic. Sweat over low heat until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add ½ teaspoon salt and stock. Bring to a boil and add 1 teaspoon salt and choclo. When stock returns to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until choclo is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add peppers and remove from heat.

5. Assemble: Melt remaining butter in the microwave and use a fork to scrape squash flesh into a large bowl, reserving shells. Toss squash with melted butter and 1 teaspoon salt. Divide corn butter among shells. Use a slotted spoon to add two scoops of esquites to each, and top with squash. Serve with remaining Cotija, lime wedges, cilantro, and Tajín.