“Don’t touch the shells,” warned the waiter at El Che Bar when he delivered my wood-fire-grilled Delaware oysters ($16). Good advice, I realized as I gingerly forked my way into the burning-hot but still creamy bivalves, topped with celery root purée, Creole rémoulade slaw, and crispy leeks. The first bite: sublime. By the end, I’d not only touched the shells, I’d licked them clean. 845 W. Washington Blvd.