Wellfleet

4423 N. Elston Ave., 773-283-7400, fishguy.com
Best new: Served only at lunch from behind the counter of a fish market, the pizza from Wellfleet is gaining a following as rabid as the one for owner Bill Dugan’s lobster rolls and sushi. After months of trial runs, he and his chef, Janet Flores, have mastered their puffy, charred crust, an ideal substrate for aquatic treasures such as Dugan’s house-cured balik lox. In fact, you won’t find red sauce or meat on any of the shop’s three rotating pies. Chances are good you’ll realize that seafood pizza is the most delicious thing you never knew existed.

Coalfire

1321 W. Grand Ave., 312-226-2625, coalfirechicago.com
Best overall: When the mighty Great Lake abruptly closed last year, the expertly charred pies—now regularly showcasing toppings from Publican Quality Meats—at this West Town staple picked up the torch as the city’s finest.