The Chicago area is full of both pastrami purists and newfangled innovators. With some new delis entering the scene, we sized up a few of the latest offerings alongside some old favorites.
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The Best
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Manny's Coffee Shop and Deli 1141 S. Jefferson St. Aggressively spiced meat is the hallmark of this local institution in the Loop Pros: Slightly thick, slightly fatty, slightly briny slices are packed between a deli rye so flavorful that, even completely undressed, this sandwich sets the bar for all the others. Cons: Clawing through the packed lunchtime crowd of lawyers and pols to get the goods. Price: $9.95 |
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Max and Benny's Restaurant & Deli 461 Waukegan Rd., Northbrook; 332 E. Illinois St. This standby serves both lean and regular versions, but real deli lovers will choose the regular. A little fat, after all, improves the taste of this lowbrow cut of beef. Pros: A mix of both brisket and belly cuts. Cons: Though soft, the parbaked rye bread (a nostalgic favorite of the owner) doesn't garner high marks. Meat made with this kind of care deserves a real deli loaf. Price: $8.95 |
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Blackbird 619 W. Randolph St. A gourmet version of the lunch counter standby Pros: Chef/owner Paul Kahan's home-cured pastrami, cut paper thin, the better to showcase its melt-in-the-mouth texture. Simply spiced with coriander and black pepper, the grilled sandwich comes on a homemade light rye with a perfect crust. Cons: Let's note up-front that this is basically a Reuben. Price: $13 |
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Finkl's World Famous Deli 400 S. Financial Place; 926 North Branch St. This barebones operation offers up a warmer version than all the others. Tip: Tell them easy on the mustard. Pros: The junior-size option ($4.25). Cons: Fatty, chewy meat that comes forth from the sandwich with every bite; mass-produced rye bread that could easily be mistaken for a tasty white were it not for a few caraway seeds. Price: $5.75 |
 Photography: Grant Kessler |
Eleven City Diner 1112 S. Wabash Ave. The latest entry on the deli scene offers a fine version of the genre's classic. Bonus points: The best pickle of the group Pros: Thin-cut slices with a hint of brine are piled high between tasty slices of deli rye. Cons: Texture-wise, this meat really delivers, but the sandwich needs a little time to mature into its distinguished guise. Price: $9.75 |