2075 North Lincoln Avenue; 773-525-2522

CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN [$$]

Jason Paskewitz impressed the hell out of us in 2001 as opening chef at Wave. But since then he’s wandered from Gabriel’s to JP Chicago to Sangria and a slew of other spots—never in the right place at the right time. Until now, with Gemini Bistro. This friendly American bistro fits his style: straight-up French onion soup packed with soft, sweet onions and topped with melted Gruyère; plump PEI mussels awash in white wine sauce; and crisp-skinned Amish chicken with an addictive, garlicky mushroom ragoût. And his moist German chocolate cake is a genius throwback dessert. Hey, Jason, now that you’ve got your act together, please don’t take it on the road.

TIP: Arrive before 6:30 and get the $31 three-course prix fixe menu.

PRICE KEY: ¢ $10 to $19  $ $20 to $29   $$ $30 to $39  $$$ $40 to $49   $$$$ $50-plus
[Cost per person for dinner, excluding wine, tax, or tip]