19. Bar Toma

After a 24-year run, Bistro 110 gave way to a moderno Italiano concept from Tony Mantuano and his Levy Restaurant partners. Freeberg, the chef de cuisine, oversees a menu of antipasti, Roman-style fritti, rosticcini, and mozzarella leading up to the heart of the operation: puffy artisanal pizzas, from a wood-burning oven, with properly artisanal toppings–Capriole goat cheese, Pinn-Oak Farm lamb sausage, La Quercia prosciutto. In other words, an Italian wine bar–and Mantuano's dream come true. "It's the way people eat in Italy," he says. Standup espresso bar and fresh cornetti in the morning; fresh cheeses, seafood salads, and pizzas all day; housemade gelati whenever. No doubt Mantuano dreams in Technicolor.

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