“A Unique French Bistro,” reads the menu. That kind of boasting usually implies enough overwrought twists and spins on classics to make the hair on your tête stand on end. Not at Chez Moi.

From crusty sourdough bread to crackly crème brûlée, this cozy room delivers straight-up Parisian bistro fare. Dominique Tougne’s signature coq au vin is a one-way ticket to your favorite boîte in your favorite arrondissement, his seared trout over braised cabbage in caper-lemon beurre blanc makes the tried-and-true seem brand-new, and the gâteau Breton—each bite crumbly, buttery, and moist—tastes like the biggest and best shortbread cookie on the planet.

Chez Moi is unique, all right: deliberately unhip and decidedly authentic.