The Francophile brothers behind this deli, which has been in the family for 63 years, have turned simple ingredients into a sophisticated sandwich that balances savory and sweet: just rare roast beef, fresh tomato, Swiss cheese, and homemade béarnaise sauce on a buttery croissant.

$9.40. 914 Noyes St., Evanston, 847-475-9400, alsdeli.net