To doubters, this place is a dinosaur that has been living off its rep for years. To believers, some of whom have been customers since FDR’s third term, it’s the steak house against which all others in Chicago must be judged.

The truth lies somewhere in between. The wood-paneled supper-club vibe intoxicates—if G&G considers you a member of the club. Either way, the steaks are thick and glorious. Wet-aged for a month and then crusted in a broiler, the beef—whether T-bone, strip loin, or rib eye—packs an incredible punch even without seasoning.

Though nothing else on the menu comes close to that level, certainly not the greasy sides or forgettable desserts, you’re not there for broiled mushrooms. Gene & Georgetti is a bit of a one-trick pony, but what a trick.

Perfect for: People who like being younger than their waiter