The rudimentary room is far from delightful, but maybe that’s why this nuanced food is so cheap. The first venture from a supremely gracious husband and wife (she clocked kitchen time at Spoon) has a regular menu and an elusive “by request” menu. Round up a few ravenous pals and dabble in both.

ORDER (SERVES 2): Chicken tom kha soup, $3.95; fried chicken, $6.95; sai krok Isaan (soured pork sausages), $7.95 for 12  

4825 N. Western Ave., Lincoln Square, 773-754-7660