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Bonci Pizzeria
161 N. Sangamon St.
These focaccia-like pizzas owe their airy crispness to imported stone-ground flour and ovens from Rome that heat from underneath.
Best pie:Toppings can change hourly—like pancetta with scrambled eggs, meatballs with shredded Parmesan, or spicy eggplant—but one of the tastiest combos ($14 a pound) includes onions, pecorino, pesto, and tomatoes.
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Paulie Gee’s
2451 N. Milwaukee Ave.
You can thank the 6,000-pound wood-fired Ferrara oven from Naples for the perfectly blistered, Burrata-soft crust, but the soppressata and Brooklyn-made chili-infused honey are East Coast all the way.
Best pie:Big Bad Wolf ($18), sausage and soppressata, drizzled with bacon jam.
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Pisolino
2755 W. Belmont Ave.
The sturdy crust, made with ultrafine-ground 00-grade bread flour, crunches like a hard pretzel. A glaze of herb-infused oil imbues it with hints of basil and parsley.
Best pie:Giacomino ($21), an umami bomb of sausage, green olives, and truffle purée.
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Pizzeria Bebu
1521 N. Fremont St.
These hand-tossed, brick-fired beauties don’t buckle under the weight of even the most abundant toppings. About those toppings: Think vodka sauce with nut-free pesto or a “carbonara” of egg and house-cured pancetta.
Best pie:Perfectly piquant sausage with broccoli rabe ($18).
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Union Squared
1307 Chicago Ave., Evanston
The secret to these distinctive pies—baked in the Motor City’s signature rectangular pans—is the extra mozzarella and brick cheese cooked around the edges, which crisp to form a buttery frico-like crust.
Best pie:The Godfather ($26), a meatfest of sausage, pancetta, and pepperoni.