Bone marrow at Longman & Eagle

Something about it seems vaguely perverse—as if foie gras is no longer sufficiently decadent, and now we feel compelled to extract the fatty marrow from a cross section of animal bone with a little fork and slather it onto crostini to satisfy our caveman cravings. But roasted bone marrow is red-hot at the moment, and it’s also a juicy indulgence when done right. The Purple Pig (500 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-464-1744), The Bristol (2152 N. Damen Ave.; 773-862-5555), Gilt Bar (230 W. Kinzie St.; 312-464-9544), David Burke’s (The James Hotel, 616 N. Rush St.; 312-660-6000): all boast enticing versions. Volo (2008 W. Roscoe St.; 773-348-4600) served one a few years back so scorching that my tongue never quite recovered. But the marrow of the moment is at Logan Square’s Longman & Eagle (2657 N. Kedzie Ave.; 773-276-7110), which tops two bones with red onion jam and sea salt. Call them the loveliest bones.

Photograph: Anna Knott