Just about every beer style has had its moment: IPA, sour, saison. Every style, it seems, except the lager. Long cast aside in favor of bolder, brasher brews, this milder, sessionable offering, most associated with mass-produced swill, takes center stage at Logan Square’s wonderful Hopewell Brewing Co.

Your first sip should be of the aptly named First Lager ($6 a pint), one of two lagers on the draft list. Watery Budweiser it ain’t—this beer packs a lot of bready flavor but stays easy to drink (and keep drinking). The bar, which leans more coffee shop than burly brewery thanks to blond wood and floods of natural light, delights just as much as the beers. 2760 N. Milwaukee Ave.