BLVD presents itself as a fantasy from a bygone time and place—1950s Hollywood, specifically—but where a lesser restaurant might have veered kitschy, this one smartly went in a more opulent direction. The space is exultant in velvet upholstery and crystal chandeliers and is anchored by an impressive staircase and a brass-trimmed bar. The waiters sport tuxedos and come quick with a cocktail. Even the women’s bathroom, complete with plush vanity stools and marble countertops, is baller. And the food is luxe enough to match: steamed mussels with kumquat in a shimmering white wine broth, roasted cauliflower energized by the sweet heat of Thai chilies, succulent short ribs enveloped in a Cabernet sauce. As fantasies go, BLVD offers one worth lingering in.

Don’t miss:The brownie sundae ($14), a gargantuan hot fudge concoction that somehow feels exactly right when eaten with a long silver spoon while lounging in a velvet booth.