Finally, Bucktown has a bona fide neighborhood restaurant to call its own, and an exceptional one at that. Chef Danny Grant (of luxe steakhouse Maple & Ash, Etta’s sister spot) arrived in the neighborhood bearing all manner of carbohydrate comforts: blistered-crust pizzas strewn with smoky pepperoni and conserved tomatoes, tufts of focaccia meant to be slathered with ricotta, tangled tendrils of bucatini in a meaty ragu — all satisfying enough to make you scout nearby real estate listings before you’ve even paid your check.