Landbirds

Eddie Lee grew up eating the bulbous lollipop chicken drumettes at Albany Park’s Great Sea Restaurant, and like many poultry enthusiasts, he fetishized their just-fried-enough exterior. But the 45-year-old Korean American saw room for improvement and, a few years back, started concocting his own wings. He now sells the fruits of his labor at this bare-bones storefront (and by “bare-bones,” we mean not a single piece of art, or even a posted menu, on the walls). The plump, juicy wings are coated in a batter so thin it’s practically transparent, then slicked with a slightly sweet secret sauce you can order at four spice levels. This is the new pinnacle of chicken wing achievement. A single plastic glove accompanies each tray. Leave it and lick your fingers clean instead.