Chicago’s omakase scene has exploded of late, thanks to newcomers like Kyoten’s Otto Phan and Kikko’s Mariya Russell (see No. 2), but the face behind Mako will be a familiar one to many. B.K. Park, the well-loved chef-owner of Juno, has peppered Mako’s menu ($175) with elements that devotees will recognize, but he takes them to a more rarefied place: For example, his love of using smoke translates here to smoked trout roe served with a Kusshi oyster in a tomato dashi gelée. His nigiri remains unimpeachable, as do the cooked dishes, like a roasted squab glazed with squab jus. And while you'll be comfortable at any of the five tables, angle for a counter seat to take in the chef’s deft knife work.

Update:Mako is offering an eight-course omakase to-go that includes dishes like octopus with yuzu vinaigrette and seaweed aioli and an A-5 Wagyu spring roll.