Chef Michael Lachowicz has turned this address into a Francophile’s choose-your-own-adventure. Aboyer is a bustling modern brasserie, while George Trois offers a genteel prix fixe experience. But it’s Silencieux that hews closest to Restaurant Michael, the treasured boîte that ruled the space for 14 years before it closed last year. While the seven-table restaurant may not be quite as tranquil as its name implies, Silencieux stays refreshingly earnest. And the favorites on the three-course prix fixe ($85) — seared foie gras, salade frisée, and Dover sole, all executed without ego or surprises — are exactly the sanity we need in 2020.

Update:Silencieux is part of Michael Lachowicz’s George Trois group, a trio of restaurants that share the same address. The patio is open and Lachowicz is offering a special grilling menu that you can also get cooked to take home or uncooked to throw on your own grill. Options include New York strip steaks, salmon with chimichurri butter, lemongrass- and ginger-brined chicken, and sides like French onion mac and cheese and grilled asparagus.