As Chicago’s dining scene reemerges from the pandemic, some restaurateurs are reimagining their concepts by taking cues from what diners are looking for in this new era of eating out. Clamshell to-go boxes are out, while an increased emphasis on ambience is in. That was the case for Baker Miller owners Dave and Megan Miller, who earlier this year swapped “Baker” for “Bagel” in both name and focus, ending a decade-long run for their Lincoln Square café. They replaced it with a playful take on a Jewish deli. At the revamped Bagel Miller (4655 N. Lincoln Ave.), the menu focuses on fat, chewy bagels and a smattering of other deli staples, such as house-smoked fish.

What prompted the switch? A shift in customers’ preferences, as people want to move away from the stripped-down nature of pandemic dining out. “A big part of dining out today is experience, so we are trying to think more thoroughly about the way diners eat,” Dave Miller says. The Millers translated that to a bolder new vibe, with bright hues splashed throughout the space, and an opportunity for diners in line to watch through a window as bagels are rolled and seeded. The change to bagels allows the chefs to be more creative with their offerings (think giardiniera and gochujang schmears) and the restaurant to be more inclusive — Miller says he’s lowered prices and increased efforts to accommodate dietary preferences.

Other owners decided to bolster their atmosphere by going a little fancier. Last year, Logan Square burger destination Mini Mott morphed into Second Generation (3057 W. Logan Blvd.), eschewing fast-casual in favor of a full-service experience. Diners can still pop in for a burger and beer at the bar, but most opt to soak in the warm bistro atmosphere as they sample new, more ambitious dishes, like miso-glazed eggplant with a custardy egg, that are inspired by chef and co-owner Edward Kim’s upbringing in an Asian American household. Co-owner Vicki Kim cites a COVID-borne desire to slow down as the driving factor behind the reboot. “During the early stages of the pandemic, we quickly transitioned to a full takeout operation, and one of the biggest things we missed was spending time with our guests,” Kim says.

For Jesse Lee and Brad Newman, the plan, even prepandemic, was to go from slinging tacos, sandwiches, and sweets under the Cookies & Carnitas moniker to running a multiculturally influenced brasserie. Their aim to open in 2020 went out the window, but they quietly began offering three-course tasting menus in 2022. After neighbors responded favorably, they officially debuted Brasserie by C&C (5940 N. Broadway, Edgewater) in January. Handmade pasta, prime sirloin frites, and craft cocktails are a marked departure from tacos and cookies, but like the Millers, Lee sensed patrons were jonesing for something more experiential: “Dining has become as much about the ambience and show as it is about the food.”