Like restaurateurs all over town, Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark of Wherewithall in Avondale retooled frantically for carryout at the start of the pandemic, but a silver lining quickly emerged: an absolutely killer muffuletta. With mortadella, coppa, soppressata, and finocchiona interlayered with provolone and mozzarella and sparked to life with giardiniera, piquillo peppers, and caper leaves, all tucked between slices of Middle Brow sesame bread, this is a messy, cheffed-up classic that we hope sticks around long after the pandemic is over.