There are times you want the whole steakhouse song and dance, and then there are other times you just want the steak. For those, this French-German bistro never fails. Its seasonal menu switches things up but always has a place for oysters, shrimp cocktail, big salads, and either a value-priced steak frites or a choice of premium cuts dry-aged in house and sliced for sharing. We love the fried perch, offered up like a bowlful of fish nuggets, and we always check out the specials board for seafood options like Manila clams and jumbo sea scallops. One of the town’s low-key best lunches happens at the bar, where a boeuf on weck is like the Arby’s roast beef sandwich of the gods.