Do you like fried fish sandwiches? Then please bookmark this page now: The catfish po’ boy here is the best you’ll ever have. You know that thing when the fish is dry and crackly on the surface and then just bursts into juice and steam when you bite in? Imagine that tightly encased in a hollowed-out Leidenheimer roll with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and rémoulade. Every bite merits a dance. Erick Williams’s fast-casual ode to New Orleans just keeps getting better: the seafood gumbo made with lump crab, the fried chicken tingling with spice, the drop biscuits lighter and meltier. The cavernous room hums, and the neighbors love it. The energy feels like Mardi Gras is just around the corner.