John Manion’s (pictured) Argentine steakhouse was always great, but it came back from its pandemic closure even better. What changed? The team leaned more into seafood, and the result has been nothing short of a revelation. While the steak is still an anchor of the menu, and we love the steak frites, served with tangy, garlicky chimichurri and beef fat fries, we are here for the grilled oysters topped with smoked onion aïoli, bacon, and crumbled potato chips, the head-on shrimp with salsa macha, and the mar de plata, a platter teeming with shrimp, scallops, lobster tails, and oysters that have taken a trip to the hearth and come to the table basking in shellfish butter with a mountain of frites on top. Beverage director Alex Cuper offers a list packed with fun South American wines, like a spunky Argentine Chardonnay that’s lovely with all that seafood.