This tiny Cambodian fine-dining BYOB offers one of the greatest and one of the most confounding dining options in Chicago. For years the choice has been between a very good carryout chicken sandwich at lunch, or a tour de force “family meal” at night ($2,600 for up to eight people), when Ethan Eang Lim (pictured) builds flavors on kroeung, the pounded spice blends at the heart of Khmer cooking. Platter after platter — shellfish salad, fish curry, housemade sausages, fried chicken — arrive in such profusion that everyone leaves with leftovers. While it’s best to experience Lim’s cooking around a big, overladen table, if you want a chance to try his signature cooking style for less of an outlay, he has started to offer sporadic à la carte menus at lunch and dinner — just keep Tock bookmarked, since reservations go fast.