Once you have tried Lem’s, you can’t help but develop a particular craving for it whenever you want barbecue. Because nowhere else in town does it quite as well. Lem’s, run by sisters Carmen Lemons and Lynn Walker Harvey, whose father and uncle started the business in 1954, is the city’s oldest Black-owned barbecue joint and a crowd favorite for a reason. Well, several of them: the rib tips served over fries and drenched with lip-smacking tangy red barbecue sauce; the spicy, juicy hot links; and, our favorite, the slab of tender ribs, with potato salad alongside. Two caveats: There are often lines, and there’s no seating inside, so everything is to-go. But you can eat at the stainless steel counter outside, a good call if you want to dive in while those hot fries are still crispy.