The metro area’s most vibrant and of-the-moment Korean cooking happens along this suburban stretch of Milwaukee Avenue, where international Korean chains compete with homegrown talent, and every restaurant has a specialty, whether beef soup (Claypot), Chinese-Korean cooking (Paik’s Noodles), or grilled intestines (Gopchang Story). Our favorite, from native Koreans James Shin and Brian Lee, is the kind of neighborhood spot you’d look for in Seoul. Designed to evoke a pocha — one of the tented snack emporiums that spill out on urban sidewalks — this restaurant practically begs you to come with a crowd to feast on communal pots of spicy army stew, whole fried chickens that the server rips into pieces at the table, and muchim made with sea snails and heaps of dressed veggies. Have a somaek — a soju beer bomb — and shout, “Geonbae!” (Cheers!)