Chicago has so many great places for pizza but this is the one that takes us to Italy: the comfy dining rooms set with sturdy wooden tables, the indulgent service (you’ll be offered some hunger-staving focaccia by the front if you have to wait), the menu that aims to satisfy rather than impress. Start with a lovely mixed green salad, maybe a little prosciutto and arugula or — hey, why not? — a half-pound ball of oozy Burrata with some crostini. Then it’s pizza time, meaning blistered, puffy-edged Neapolitan beauties fashioned from a few premium ingredients and scorched in a wood-fired oven. We like the simplest one, made with buffalo mozzarella, and we love that it arrives with a pizza wheel. Eat like an Italian with a knife and fork, or slice and grab. Either way, buonissimo.