Amici-Chicago, a counter-service spot that opened in September, is Italian in origin — owner Alfio Sciacca moved here from Sicily at the age of 24 — but as he’ll tell you, it isn’t solely an Italian restaurant. “Amici” means “friends” in Italian, but here it is an acronym for African, Mexican, Indian, Caribbean, and Italian. Sciacca, who has worked in Chicago restaurants, including Topo Gigio, for 36 years, specializes in arancini (fried Italian rice balls), which he stuffs with dishes from these countries and regions.

Try the Masalacino, filled with chicken tikka masala; the Birriacino, packed with beef birria; or the Jambacino, a recent addition made with sausage, shrimp, and seasoned rice that’s a fried version of spicy jambalaya. This global tour is fun, but my favorite is the original: the classic Italian arancino. Delivered hot from the fryer, it has a crisp golden exterior and a center filled with rich meat sauce, gooey melted mozzarella, and peas. It’s served with marinara sauce on the side for dipping every bite.

Each $8 rice ball comes with your choice of fresh-cut fries or a housemade pasta salad. Opt for the latter — it’s made with a light touch of mayo, olive oil, and giardiniera, which adds just the right amount of crunch and brings this international restaurant right back around to Chicago.