When this dish first appeared as a special, it seemed like a spin on the “Will it taco?” game. Duck à l’orange? Tacoed! Now that it has earned signature status on the menu, this duck carnitas taco has evolved into an icon. A swipe of date purée, a healthy portion of silken confit pulled to shreds, a flutter of crispy skin, a hit of juicy citrus, and a slap of sunchoke-habanero salsa. It is sweet but hot, bright but rich — four bites of bliss. $7. 2234 N. Western Ave., Logan Square