While commonly found in northern Wisconsin supper clubs, fried smelts get a cheffy update in the hands of Ryan Brosseau. He lightly dusts the delicate Great Lakes fish in a gluten-free mix of rice flour and tapioca starch, crisps them in beef tallow, and tosses them with malt vinegar salt. They’re served with fried pickles and a tartar sauce. The result is familiar yet entirely new. $14. 2965 N. Lincoln Ave., Lake View