Hens don’t have teeth but they do have gizzards — firm and perfectly delicious little muscles that do the work of chewing. It can be hard enough to find gizzards these days, much less find them celebrated. But that’s what you’ll feast on at Virtue, where chef de cuisine Damarr Brown sets them over dirty rice seasoned with herbs and minced liver. The ingredients are humble, the flavors grand. $14. 1462 E. 53rd St., Hyde Park