In most Chicago Vietnamese restaurants the egg rolls called cha gio are generally rolled in sheer wheat flour wraps that fry to a pleasing crisp. At Sochi they’re prepared as they traditionally are in Vietnam: wrapped in rice paper that pops and blisters in the hot oil and results in a symphony of textures that range from chewy to glassy but mostly crunchy. They arrive with bundles of lettuce, herbs, and pickled veg, one per roll, for further textural contrasts. $16. 1358 W. Belmont Ave., Lake View