The complex, smoky cocktails at this bustling blue-walled hideaway will turn mezcal doubters into true believers. Below, three beverage picks—for first-timers, dabblers, and the already converted—from Jay Schroeder, the original agave whisperer behind the place (he’s since departed).

Beginner
Chilango ($10): “If mezcal’s smoky flavor sticks out too much for you, do our margarita—it cools that note down and lets you acclimate a bit.”

Intermediate
Siete Misterios Doba-Yej ($7 for 1 oz.): “This drink is calm yet citrusy and bright. A utility player that’s absolutely delicious.”

Advanced
Sorry for Harambe ($11): “A cocktail that lets you really taste the mezcal, especially the dried fruit notes you might otherwise miss.”