If you live in Bucktown, you might remember O’Cha, a Thai spot that usually sat empty. It became Gin Sen, which erected a new sign … and then shuttered. The sign remains, but a window placard proclaims that the new name is — are you ready? — Eat Fine Design by Khun Kung.

The eponymous Kung, who trained in Bangkok hotels, formerly ran a catering and carry-out operation in Humboldt Park. Her menu is huuuuuge and encompasses everything from spicy fried Brussels sprouts with cashews (great) and stir-fried “fire” noodles erupting from a Cup Noodle container to a $60 set meal from Chiang Mai. Kung’s daughter, Ploy, does her best to keep up with the crowds who’ve discovered this maximalist menu, featuring food from every region of Thailand.

What should you try? Lord, what shouldn’t you? Khao yum Pak Tai is a mix-it-yourself salad with butterfly-pea-flower blue rice, shredded makrut lime leaf, veggies, and pungent dried shrimp — a gorgeous dish for those who appreciate umami-rich flavors. You can get Massaman curry, but instead try kanom jeen nam ya, a palate-tingling fish and rice noodle curry. Hat Yai is, on one visit, the crispest, most remarkable fried chicken of my life (and on the next, nothing special). Yum woon sen (bean thread noodle salad with shrimp) is exemplary. Brave the crowds to dine in, or order to go and expect a two-hour window. It’s worth the wait.