PERFECT FOR

Quiet contemplation and philosophical debates

START WITH

Will Be, the fruity, fluffy, and easy-drinking flagship saison

The corner of Ravenswood and Winona has been home to beer makers since the late 2000s, when Metropolitan Brewing set up shop as one of the city’s craft beer pioneers. As of August, it’s now the quarters of Mike Schallau’s Is/Was Brewing, which has added the first taproom to the cavernous yet comfortable brick-clad space, creating one of the few Chicago-area destinations for lovers of a sadly hard-to-find beer style: saison. It translates to “season,” which seems appropriate for a brewery that has timed its opening just right: Drinkers are now appreciating the delicate dry, fruity flavors of the style, and low-ABV beverages like these are increasingly popular. A small bar hosts a handful of stools for studious imbibers, but the rest of the area is airy, with plenty of space (and couches) for tranquil drinking by the Metra tracks. 5121 N. Ravenswood Ave.

Photograph: Ross Feighery