It takes a familiarity with a certain kind of Southern coastal seafood joint to make great broiled oysters. It’s all about plumping the oysters without exactly cooking them, yet still engineering a bubbly hot, golden brown, and alchemically delicious crust made from breadcrumbs, butter, the mollusk’s own juices, and suboptimal Parmesan cheese. At Briny Swine Smokehouse & Oyster Bar, chef-owner Brandon Rushing gets them just right — perhaps because he recently decamped here from Edisto Beach, South Carolina, where he ran the first iteration of this restaurant. Rushing gussies his oysters up with collard greens and diced country ham for the Southern Rockefeller theme, never mind it was the Carnegies who were the big coastal landowners. No problem. These are real-deal Low Country broiled oysters. You can almost smell the pluff mud. $18. 2577 N. Clark St., Lincoln Park