Lox pizza

Rumors about wonderful pizzas coming from Wellfleet, the FishGuy Market’s modest little BYO, sounded entirely plausible. Owner Bill Dugan enjoys a rabid following for Wellfleet’s lobster rolls and sushi, and the man knows more than just seafood. He and his chef, Janet Flores, have indeed mastered puffy, charred pies flicked with whatever aquatic treasures happen to strike their fancy. A recent masterpiece from their custom-built gas oven featured Dugan’s special house-cured lox and dill leaves atop soubise (creamy onion sauce) on a chewy-crisp crust reminiscent of Great Lake’s (RIP). It’s among the city’s best. 4423 N. Elston Ave., 773-283-7400.

Photograph: Anna Knott