This comfy brick-walled joint with a curious name—it refers not to the IRS but to an old-timey gin libation—is having an identity crisis of the best kind.

One moment it’s a carefully considered cocktail den that’ll serve you a smooth Armagnac Manhattan. The next it’s an eclectic and self-assured wine bar with a glass list that’s heavy on French offerings from small vineyards and with knowledgeable bartenders who eschew snobbery. Then, just as you’re getting good and relaxed, it turns into a hip bistro where you’ll enjoy artful small plates with pours of sherry and Calvados.

The upshot? Income Tax is an extraordinarily multitalented debut that’s exactly what Edgewater’s been thirsting for.

5959 N. Broadway