Cale Darrell was sitting on his couch, scrolling through Instagram, when he came across a picture that stopped his thumb cold. It was an ad for Bose headphones featuring Donald Glover in a khaki bodysuit with a distinct black stain on the crotch. Darrell had seen the garment before: He’d carried it at Good Form Vintage, his West Town vintage clothing store. “He’s wearing a pair of insanely rare coveralls from the 1930s,” the Monroe, Ohio, native recalls in an earthy twang. “I found them at a flea market at like 3 in the morning.”

Glover is a frequent customer. So are the Jonas Brothers, as well as an array of men’s fashion influencers and designers. Since Darrell, 38, established Good Form at the beginning of 2020, it’s become one of the buzziest sources for vintage menswear in America. In the past year, Darrell has been featured in both Esquire and GQ. And his finds have outfitted the protagonist of Mr. Throwback, a Peacock show about a sports memorabilia salesman.

The store is open by appointment only, but the website is where Darrell built his rep. The clothes, sleekly arranged by color against a white backdrop, are sold in closely followed limited drops. With a mix of self-deprecation and genuine reverence, Darrell describes the spectrum of offerings as “basic Ralph Lauren” and “’90s celebrity airport style.” There’s plenty of North Shore prep at reasonable prices (often less than $100) but also rare midcentury military clothing and even older workwear, like Glover’s bodysuit, that get into the mid–triple digits. The criteria: “Clean, the color is true, and nothing synthetic.”

Darrell recounts a friend telling him that Good Form was “the first contemporary vintage brand,” and it got him thinking about his own fashion line. This summer, he intends to debut Former Studies, a capsule collection of eight pieces informed by his vintage finds. At his shop, his 6-foot-1 frame pads around in one of them: a pair of dark indigo jeans that he estimates will retail for about $250. They have a drawstring and a triangular drape. And frankly, they look sick.